Avery Printable Heat Transfer Paper for Dark Fabrics, 8.5" x 11", Inkjet Printer Compatible, 5 Sheets of Iron On Transfer Paper, Great for Custom Shirts, Uniforms, Gifts, and More (3279)

Problem: third grader wanted to do a piano/singing tribute to Bowie, and online printers would not print the design sought due to copy right, though we had modified some of the graphics. Their position was understood. Then I discovered the Avery transfer paper. I bought both the dark and the light color transfer papers not knowing which the little guy would prefer at the end.Here is the upshot, working with both the light and dark paper:• Wash and dryer dry your t shirt/fabric first. A shrunk fabric works best• the more time you spend prepping and the closer you follow the instructions the better your end product• don't be afraid of force (pushing down) and heat• Trimming the extra paper on the light paper minimizing areas that will be clear but somewhat glossy• Trimming the extra areas on the dark paper avoids transferring the color white to the fabric• Through trial and error I figured out it is better to avoid sharp corners to make them round, reducing the risk of corners peeling off• The side of the paper you print on is the white side for both dark and light paper, so make sure you know how to load the paper in your inkjet printer• Your final print area can be larger than a sheet as you can cut images/words from the paper and space them or use them elsewhere on the shirt (for instance, arm badges can be printed in a corner of the same sheet)Trick:• To avoid damage to the reverse side graphics, if you do a front/back design, use a large cutting board or a piece of flat wood slide it in the t-shirt that way the wood sits between the front and back. This also solves the issue of both sides of the t-shirt not being perfectly flat/ironed before you startLight Color Paper:• You need to print in reverse as the image is reflected back on the fabric. I used Powerpoint and flipped the images and writing and avoided the online Avery tool for doing so• As mentioned before, you don't have to cut very precisely as you only leave behind gloss/clear where you don't trimDark Color Paper:• You DO NOT need to print in reverse• You need peel of the printed paper BEFORE initiating transfer with an iron -I wasted one sheet not bing careful• The portion you don't trim transfer as white and you can create a border, rough or smooth, as I did with the front of the dark t shirt• Peeling the transfer portion from the t shirt before ironing is difficult....I used tweezers and eventually I managed to peel off the backing• You use an included parchment paper over the peeled paper to press the image onto the fabricFinal Impressions:• Don't expect professional grade printing• Recognize these are not permanent and are intended for fun and event needs• Mistakes and rough edges on my work is my own haste getting in the wayThis met my needs, to have a front/back t-shirt design on both dark and white t-shirts, using the appropriate paper for each color.**** UPDATE *****Both the white and black t shirts have been washed about 15 times each by now. And, they still look very nice.

I wanted to make shirts to wear to Disneyland. These were so easy, directions were clear and it worked perfectly.

So far one of the best paper for eco solvent printer that I have purchased. I used epson 2850.Very easy to press on.

So far, love! After three washes, there’s no bleeding, no rips or tears, I was a little worried that the edges would peel, but so far no peeling. The colors came out amazing and still vibrant. The only thing I can say is the print on the shirt that I put on is stiffer than others. The photo is how it looks after three washes.

These work really well, fourth time we are using this! A few tips for you, especially since the instructions leave a bit to be desired.1) WASH THE SHIRT FIRSTI forgot about the washing of the shirts ahead of time. The first time we used these the shirts are still hanging in there after about two years and multiple washes. The next two times we forgot to wash the shirts, the iron ons looked great but are peeling a bit already.2) DO NOT PRINT IN REVERSE, THIS IS NOT AN IRON ON TRANSFER! THINK OF IT MORE LIKE AN IRON ON PATCH!Meaning: What you print out is what you will see EXACTLY on your shirt. The ink does not transfer to your shirt. if you're not sure what that means, do you know those little kid toy tattoos that you peel, apply to skin, and then put a wet sponge on the back of the tattoo to get the ink to "transfer" to the skin (and it does it in reverse of what you see). That is a transfer. This is more like an iron on patch, but instead of a patch, it is what you print out on the printer sheet.3) PEEL THE BACKING FIRST!Because the "iron on patch" will be stuck to the surface it is on. If you do not peel the backing, then your print will be forever sealed to the backing. You want it sealed onto the shirt. Fortunately, the back of the sheet has numerous pieces on it, not just one big piece, so I was able to cut the shape of the heart on my transfer and still was able to peel it quite easily.4) Use the white sheet included in between the iron and the printable.I think otherwise you may discolor your shirt with all the heat from the iron5) 3 minutes, not a lot of pressure, repeatedly going over the entire printable esp the edgesI did not use anything close to a lot of pressure, I think that also may discolor your fabric. Just fairly light even pressure over the course of 3 minutes, not staying in any one place too long, over and over and over6) Let the surface cool down a bit after each ironMostly because otherwise the next shirt will get hot when you put it down and it's waiting and you don't want to accidentally have your iron on printable get heat sealed any little bit before you apply the iron. Just to be on the safe sideGreat product!!!