Genie 36179R.S Garage Door Opener Trolley Assembly Genuine Original Equipment Manufacturer (OEM) Part

Was exactly what I needed to fix my garage door

Great quality part and exactly what was needed to fix my garage door issue!

After searching you tube regarding an issue with my Genie garage door opener… this was answer. Easy to install, less 15 minutes. For the cost of this compared to having a professional come out and do it; I saved hundreds of dollars!

Offered a much less expensive repair that corrected a door opener that was having issues lifting the door.It comes without installation instructions. I'm mechanical so the install was easy for me.

Works fine, but I'm getting just a couple years use out of today's version of this Genie opener carriage, so I keep one or two backup units on hand. Carriages come and go, as do door support springs (coastal Pacific salt-air) , but our screw-type residential Genie opener, now over 20 years old, still works great. So I'm happy to still be able to get parts such as carriages and remotes. And outside-mount keypads, which similarly now last only a year or so.

My Genie garage door opener went FUBAR a few weeks ago, and it became clear that I needed to replace the trolley, as well as the shaft coupler and the limit switches for both up and down extremes of the door. The original equipment trolley part is a few dollars more expensive that the generic parts, but I would recommend the OEM part because it has metallic teeth engaging the door screw, rather than plastic teeth in the generic parts. It is very easy to replace by dropping the door to the closed position and unfastening the door end of the screw rail, which is a single nut. Disconnecting the upper end of the door linkage from the trolley, releasing the old trolley, and moving the loose end of the rail off to the side a bit allows you to slide the old trolly off the end of the rail and replace with the new trolly (with teeth in the "disengaged" position). Reconnecting the loose end of the rail, re-attaching the upper end of the door linkage, and re-engaging the new trolley, and you are done! If you have to replace the trolley, I would recommend also checking the limit switches for both maximum UP and maximinum DOWN, because you may find that it was failure of the limit switch(es) that precipitated the trolley failure. It would also be useful to check the shaft coupler, but that is most easily done by dropping the power head and rail to the garage floor. You probably do not need to do this, unless after replacing the trolley and checking the limit switches, you find that the door either does not move well or sounds pretty rough. Once the power head and rail are on the floor, it is very easy to replace the coupler.

Works well

My original carrier wore out and was slipping. Tried the third-party replacement because it could arrive in a day or two instead of a week or two. That one put excessive force on the jackscrew resulting in the door reversing when trying to go down. Replaced that one with this OEM part, and it immediately worked as if new, as it should.