Red Oak Wood Veneer Sheet, Plain Sliced/Flat Cut, 24x96, "A" Grade, 10 mil Peel and Stick PSA Backer

Excellent product. I have used this product twice to face cabs. Works well and takes stains and paint very well. The 3M sticker back is top notch. After 15 years the cabs look brand new.

High quality veneer. Very smooth. Easy to cut and great grip. I used it to repair stair risers that were damaged during floor refinishing. I did find that the slick adhesive cover film was harder to peel off along the slightly rough cross-grain factory edges than the ones I had cut--the adhesive wanted to peel off with the film along those cuts, but once I got the film started, it came off easily. I initially received the wrong product, with only a paper backer, not the peel-and-stick PSA, but customer service was prompt and I had the correct veneer a few days later. I suggest checking before you remove it from the box--the 3M logo was very clear on the right one. The paper backer was a dark brown matte color instead. Re-rolling the veneer to fit in the box is a two-person task! I unrolled my veneer and weighed both ends down for 2 days, and it was reasonably flat, with just enough curl to make installation a little easier than if it were completely flat. It is possible to reposition after you get some adhesive stuck, but the initial grip is pretty strong, so don't count on that. Once rolled with a J-roller, it was very solid--no hollow sound when tapping. Much easier than attempting contact cement with a paper-backed veneer.

We had an old kitchen table that had to be covered with a table cloth because the veneer was broken and coming off. I was able to remove it, sand the top and apply two coats of poly to prepare the surface. The new veneer was simple and easy to apply. I used a pair of scissors to cut the excess around the table. I then used a 1x6 board about 18 inches long to apply pressure over the surface to insure a good adherence to the surface. A router was used to trim the edges. I finished with sanding and two coats of polyurethane. It's beautiful and no longer needs to be covered. I would definitely recommend this product and will use it again for future projects.

I bought this veneer to resurface the risers and stringer boards on my foyer stairs to match my stripped solid oak stair treads and to then all stain black. I used paper templates to make patterns and it worked well. It cuts with a sharp razor knife but I found that good scissors worked very well especially on intricate cuts and angles. I was a little disappointed that the sheets did not have adhesive right to the edge of the sheets. The 3m peel-and-stick adhesive covered 24" on the back but left about 3/4" one edge and 1/4" on the other. I wanted to use the factory cut edges but couldn't as the adhesive was not out to the edges. Regardless, it adheres and takes stain well. It curved well around the riser of the bottom 12" diameter curtail stair without splitting or cracking (see photo).

I got one batch and was very happy with it. So ordered another..and totally different grain pattern. I can understand that though. The product itself is great.

This was my first experience working with veneer, I'm an electrician, not a cabinetmaker, but I've played with wood a bit. I've used PSA adhesives on other things and they've worked ok, but only modest adhesion which made me a little apprehensive with this. But no fear, I used a rubber roller from the local hardware store and it stuck well. Real wood, slightly thinner than noted at only .033", but absolutely fine for any purpose I can imagine. And it worked absolutely great. Sand it, stain it, finish it, install it. Bang, you're done and are now looking at real wood, not contact paper that cost the same. Yeah, more work, but furniture grade, not drawer liner grade. It's 6 star worthy, not just 5, it's that good.

I hired a good handyman to do this - well versed in carpentry, and there were 2 issues. 1) one edge of the sheets didn't have glue on them for about 1/4" - but no big deal. 2) All went on well until we put a clear coat (urethane) on it - and it bubbled up terribly! Apparently the adhesive wasn't strong enough to keep it down and when the wood expanded from absorbing the liquid, it pulled away. Is this typical of applying veneers? I would think that if the adhesive was strong enough, it should have been ok. One should be able to apply a protective coat!

The veneer was fine. I was repairing gouges in my kitchen cabinets made by a previous tenant's wheel chair. I also hated the color of the varnish and planned to stain the cabinets a darker color. The only problem I encountered was not taking into account that the veneer was more of an unfinished wood than the cabinets which had a coat of varnish on them. The stain soaked into the veneer and made it darker than the original cabinets when I stained them. They turned out beautiful after a little touch up work and blending of another varnish on the veneer.