ColorBond (3180) Acura TLX Espresso, LVP Leather, Vinyl & Hard Plastic Refinisher Spray Paint - 12 oz.

Product works fine; goes on smoothly with correct texture, dries fast, etc.Problem is that it simply does not match the OEM color.I resprayed my glove box door with the SEM product and the color was too light.I then tried the LVP and it was better but still a little light with a yellowish tinge.You can see both in the photos, one is with ambient light and the other is illuminated with a worklight.I wound up acquiring a used glove box door, which is in the lower left of the second picture. Note that it does match. I also included photos of the rear cab trim panel which I also resprayed. Color doesn't match there, either but at least it isn't quite as obvious in that location.I don't know if it's a bad match from the manufacturer or if the problem is simply that the original parts have darkened with age (I did clean them).My advice? Spray everything or spray nothing and get OEM replacements.

I didn't realize that leaving a can of spray containing DEET on the seat would plasticize the existing coating on my Toyota Avalon leather car seat... well, that was a one time, never to repeat mistake. I wiped off what I could and waited until the edges of the area were again adhered and were no longer sticky. I was left with essentially a 1" x 7" area where the seat coating was gone and left with uncoated leather.Then the search for a solution. I found this product on Amazon, but wasn't sure whether this product would work well. Some reviews said the color wasn't quite a match, while others approved. I decided to try, found the interior code from the doorjamb from the line labeled C / TR, which was TRim code LE17 (which corresponds to light grey). And bought this product.I tested it on a piece of cardboard, and wasn't sure about the color match, even after multiple sprays. I hestitantly decided to try nonetheless... I figured if it were close, that would be better than the existing small section of untreated leather. BTW, the final result was an excellent color match - I don't know what the proper match test is, but it is NOT using a scrap of cardboard. If doing it again, I probably would have used a piece of plastic instead that would not be so absorbent. I think the absorbency had some effect on the color presentation.I used 220 grit to smooth the edges, then 400 grit, then used a magic eraser to clean the seat. Masked off, since any overspray would be essentially stuck to whatever it found. A couple of minutes of can shaking, four very light sprays later with 10 minutes between drying of coats, and I am (shockingly) very happy with the result - the color is spot on, and the look and feel is the same. If I look really carefully, I can see a very minor small ridge where my prep was not sufficient. This may be easily fixable by additional slight sanding and additional coats. But just looking at the seat, it is really very good, does not appear (without REALLY close inspection) to have been subject to a repair, and is much better than I would have expected. The coating has the same feel, good finish (the repair has slightly more shine, but after I let it cure for a few weeks I know that can be toned down using a very fine grit (400+) sandpaper - much better than working from too flat a finish), the coating is flexible and adheres well, and probably most importantly, the color is really an excellent match.I noticed that there is very slight tackiness remaining in the seams a day after the work, which tells me that for seams 10 minutes between coats is probably not quite enough time, and that anyone sitting on this seat will be sitting on a towel for the first week or so until the volatiles are completely gone...Speaking of volatiles... there was not much odor at all, but as with any spray, do this outside and let the car air out. There was little overspray but I would say masking is mandatory, especially if like me you have contrasting colors in the interior. I don't want light grey overspray anywhere, especially on a different color.Overall, I would say this repair project has been a 9 out of 10, with 50% of that missing single point being either due to insufficient prep or fixable with additional sanding/spraying work, and not due to a deficiency in the product. And the best advice I can give is that the spray containing DEET should stay in the trunk.

I obtained the paint code from the door of my 2000 Ford Mustang, as instructed. It was 9H, or medium parchment color according to Ford. The color sample on the computer did not look like the correct color. When I received the paint can, the cap did not seem like the correct color either. Reluctantly, I cleaned the thoroughly worn, discolored and slightly pitted leather steering wheel with a water base, foaming cleaner. Sanded slightly with Scotch Brite pad. Sprayed 3 light misting coats of VLP paint according to directions. WOW! It completely covered the discolored areas and smoothed out most of the slightly rough portions of the steering wheel and the color matched perfectly! And I mean perfectly! Amazing product! Now a 9/10, for a 23 year old steering wheel! Couldn’t be happier.

Colorbond LVP worked wonders on my C5 Corvette's original oak and tan interior.**Make sure you follow and complete ALL the preparation instructions before applying the coating!!Proper prep prevents poor performance!The product itself is very easy to apply and responds best to light, multiple coats. Since the drying time between coats is only ten minutes, it's easy to practice a little patience to get a long lasting professional result. I had a few small areas that needed to be resprayed, due to my error in taping over areas that actually needed coloring. I though I was going to ruin the nice, level finish I'd laid down! But no, the product "re-activates" itself, similar to using shellac for wood furniture. The wet spray color from the can blends and levels itself out with the coating that's already been applied to create one strong finish! No one can tell where the touch ups were made! It dries in about ten to fifteen minutes in moderate temps (65 to 70 degrees was my working temperature).I actually intended to only recolor the seats, but the results were so good, I decided to go ahead and tackle the carpeting, making it black instead of tan, and adding the cinnamon seat color to the door panels and lower dash areas. *This review is only for the cinnamon color LVP spray, I'm just including the info about the carpet project for reference.This was my first attempt at such an ambitious project, and I remember thinking as I was removing all the carpeting, "what have I got myself into??" Luckily, the product is easy to use, and Corvette interiors are surprisingly easy to take apart! The product was applied in late March of this year, 2020 -- I had nothing else to do during the quarantine!It is now mid August, and the interior has been subjected to open-top summer heat in excess of 100 degrees. The color has not transferred to any clothing, it has not bled or run, but it has instead given me a unique custom look at a fraction of the cost to reupholster.*I am including pictures of the process for your inspection and approval. I used the BMW X5 Luez Cinnamon Brown, as that color was, to my eye, the closest I could get to the Kalahari interior color that was offered in the 2014 Lime Rock Green Corvettes. Overall, about five cans for the seats, lower door panels, and lower dash/knee bolster areas. I applied four to five light coats to achieve the darker cinnamon color over the light oak/tan. The carpet project was more labor and product intensive, as I was changing a very light color with a lot of dimensional and directional challenges to black. ANY tiny spot that was missed is noticeable if you look real close. Luckily, no one but me is ever that close to my Corvette floor carpets!I had a completely successful experience with this product; it delivers an amazing result when the preparation is followed.